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Tuesday, February 20, 2018

NYFW, something is changing

Por sumily

"Dreamer" ... A word stalks the American collective discourse daily and refers to the young immigrants brought to this country by their parents when they were children, without papers. Now, under the Trump government, they are threatened with deportation unless Congress reaches a last-minute agreement. The Colombian Cortázar, who returned to New York after 12 years in Paris and whose clothes have been chosen by Melania Trump, voluntarily defined himself as a dreamer in the United States. Coach presented a portfolio that he named "The Dreamer" and "dream" was one of the 50 words chosen by Raf Simons, creator of Calvin Klein, to summarize the United States.

New York Fashion Week culminated in the absence of several brands and a strange predilection for a more modest fashion but also to give more strength to women in the post #MeToo era. For some time New York has suffered from the absence of big brands, and there were more goodbyes this week. Venezuelan Carolina Herrera said goodbye as creative director of the brand she founded four decades ago.

The Canadian Jason Wu will leave Hugo Boss to concentrate on his own line. Victoria Beckham and Jenny Packham will move to London next season to celebrate their respective 10th and 30th anniversaries. A classic in every era, black is definitely back, especially for the night. Perhaps an echo of the protest against sexual harassment we saw on the red carpet of the Golden Globes, when almost everyone wore black.

Michael Kors, Tom Ford, Tadashi Shoji and Christian Siriano showed black dresses, pants and jackets. The Chilean Maria Cornejo combined them with red or electric blue, and even in the colorful collection of the Puerto Rican Stella Nolasco, very affected by Hurricane Maria, there was room for sensual short and long blacks, with much lace and feathers.

Alexander Wang presented a style of power dressing for the working woman, presenting his collection in a sort of office with cubicles after the scandal that brought down former Hollywood producer Harvey Weinstein. Prabal Gurung cemented his reputation as the designer of the thinking woman with a collection inspired by groups dominated by women like the Gulabi Gang of India or the Mosuo tribe of China. Eight models participated in a #MeToo parade, telling how they were harassed, sexually assaulted or raped to draw attention to the problem. Ralph Lauren put on the catwalk a suit of white jacket and pants, the preferred clothing of Hillary Clinton and women in the Grammys, even recently Melania Trump, although no one knows very well why.

Clients on the catwalks cover all markets and sensitivities. The vast majority of Calvin Klein's nuclear winter collection, with long skirts, covered collars and hair, and bodies wrapped in loose clothing, could be worn by Muslims or Jews who strictly observe religion. Jenny Packham exhibited layers to cover the shoulders of her models with thin crotch soles. The colorful Ralph Lauren cocktail dresses had high collars and sleeves.

The Colombian Esteban Cortázar revisited the ponchos and shawls, urban, asymmetric and decontracted while the models paraded to the rhythm of "Song with all" by Mercedes Sosa.